If like me you have found the terms powernet, power mesh and stretch mesh confusing then this episode for you.
After finally finishing my Willowdale bra this week I thought it would be fun to talk about these fabrics that create the foundations of our lingerie and swimwear but can be used for many more applications.
So this week I wanted to share my thoughts on what the definitions are for each of these fabrics, how they are made that makes them so great and lots of ideas of ways in which you can use them in your dressmaking.
In the blog post for the episode you'll find lots of links and resources to explore these fabrics more.
If you haven't tried them before then I hope this inspires you to give them a go. If you have tried them then I hope it gives you some new ideas on other ways in which you can use them.
As always I'd love to hear your thoughts about these fabrics so please do get in touch!
For full show notes and links to extra resources visit: https://www.sewmuchmorefun.co.uk/post/episode80
If you have enjoyed this episode then remember to click 'follow' in your podcast app to get updates on any new episodes.
Sharing is caring - reviews
If you enjoy this episode please be sure to share it and to leave a review to help others find us.
Get in touch
I always love to hear about you trying out what you pick up from these episodes so do let me know:
Thank you so much for listening and for all your support. x
If like me you have found the terms powernet, power mesh and stretch mesh confusing then this episode for you.
After finally finishing my Willowdale bra this week I thought it would be fun to talk about these fabrics that create the foundations of our lingerie and swimwear but can be used for many more applications.
So this week I wanted to share my thoughts on what the definitions are for each of these fabrics, how they are made that makes them so great and lots of ideas of ways in which you can use them in your dressmaking.
In the blog post for the episode you'll find lots of links and resources to explore these fabrics more.
If you haven't tried them before then I hope this inspires you to give them a go. If you have tried them then I hope it gives you some new ideas on other ways in which you can use them.
As always I'd love to hear your thoughts about these fabrics so please do get in touch!
For full show notes and links to extra resources visit: https://www.sewmuchmorefun.co.uk/post/episode80
If you have enjoyed this episode then remember to click 'follow' in your podcast app to get updates on any new episodes.
Sharing is caring - reviews
If you enjoy this episode please be sure to share it and to leave a review to help others find us.
Get in touch
I always love to hear about you trying out what you pick up from these episodes so do let me know:
Thank you so much for listening and for all your support. x
[00:00:00] Jacqui: I have to confess that I find powernet and power mesh fabrics intimidating and a little bit confusing. We hear a lot about the fashion fabrics that we use for dress making, but some of the unsung heroes are those that do a lot of the work behind the scenes. So after a recent bra making course, I decided to shine some light on this gap in my knowledge and learn more about these fabrics.
[00:00:22] In today's episode, I want to share with you what I learned in case you two have found these fabrics, a bit of a mystery.
[00:00:28] Jacqui: Hello, everyone. And welcome to the Sew Mindful podcast where we dig into the tips and topics that will help you have great fun making clothes that make you feel fabulous. I'm your host, Jacqui Blakemore of Sew Much More Fun and I can't wait to share this week's illuminating episode with you, so let's roll the tape. /
[00:01:01] /
[00:01:02] /Hi. It's great to be with you again. As we've now reached episode 80, I just wanted to say a huge thank you to you for listening for your support and for your encouragement. Without it this podcast wouldn't have reached 80 episodes. I also want to say a huge thank you for the donations that you've made on Buy Me a Coffee.
[00:01:22] It's so lovely to get feedback that the podcast is giving value and that you're enjoying it. But before I start getting totes emosh, let's get stuck into the topic for today.
[00:01:32]
[00:01:33] Jacqui: Having recently finished my Willowdale bra, I thought it would be fun to talk about these fabrics that shape and sculpt our bodies.
[00:01:41] They go by various names depending on which part of the world you live in. You may have heard of the term stretch mesh, power mesh, or powernet.
[00:01:50] I think learning more about these fabrics gives us more options to improve the fit and the comfort of our garments, and allows us to get creative with our makes in terms of how we incorporate them into some unique features.
[00:02:03] So what exactly are they? What are the differences and when and how can you use them? Well, I first came across powernet when I bought my first pair of Hold Me in Pants many years ago.
[00:02:14] I'm partial to a bit of sculpting and shaping around the midriff, and these fabrics in these garments have an amazing compression quality.
[00:02:22] But my first experience actually sewing with these fabrics was sewing the powernet as part of a bra making project a few years ago.
[00:02:30] And then again, a few months ago. Quite a big gap in between, mainly because I didn't really feel confident in buying or using powernet, and so I decided I needed to find out more.
[00:02:40] So what are these fabrics? Well, the first thing to note is that throughout my research, these names were used to mean subtly different things depending on which site you looked at.
[00:02:52] So I'm gonna give you my interpretation of what I think the most common meanings, were in the descriptions.
[00:02:59] In this podcast, I'm gonna cover two main types of fabric, which I'm gonna call stretch or power mesh and powernet.
[00:03:06] Now, you may disagree with the names that I'm using to refer to them, but the characteristics that differentiate them are that one is really stretchy, lighter, and more drapey.
[00:03:16] I'm gonna refer to this as stretch mesh. You may also have heard this called power mesh, or you might see it referred to as stretch tulle.
[00:03:25] The other is a firmer, denser, more compressive and less stretchy fabric. And I'm gonna call that powernet.
[00:03:32] So stretch for stretchier and power for the firmer or more powerful one.
[00:03:37] And to help you picture them, you might find stretch mesh used to line the cup of a bikini bra or to line a swimsuit to give that smoother appearance.
[00:03:47] You might find powernet as a band that holds up and under wide bra or the inside panel for tummy control in knickers or compression wear.
[00:03:56] Jacqui: They're typically made from a blend of nylon or polyester and elastane or spandex. Nylon provides the strength and durability, and spandex gives the stretch and recovery.
[00:04:08] The power of these fabrics lies in how they are knitted.
[00:04:12] Jersey and other more traditional knitted fabrics are made with a more familiar technique that we also use in hand knitting called weft knitting, which goes from side to side.
[00:04:22] But these stretch and power meshes or powernet fabrics are created using warp knitting. In warp knitting, the yarns run lengthwise vertically along the fabric, which means it's often more stretchy vertically than it is from side to side.
[00:04:37] I thought you might ask me about how to do warp knitting, and it seems that they can only be done on machines, but I found a YouTube video from a lovely lady who shows how to do this on a domestic knitting machine, and I did find that quite fascinating to watch.
[00:04:51] So powernet and power mesh fabrics have a fine mesh structure and can also be treated to be chlorine resistant for swimwear or increased moisture wicking for sportswear.
[00:05:02] They both have good stretch and recovery.
[00:05:04] They're both used in lingerie, swimwear, active wear, and other clothing.
[00:05:09] They both have similar requirements when it comes to sewing them, and they're both breathable and have good wicking qualities to help us stay cool and dry.
[00:05:18] The key characteristic that makes powernet more firm and compressive though lies in the composition of the fibers used and the knitting process.
[00:05:27] powernet is typically made from around 80 to 85% nylon and 15 to 20% spandex. It's also knitted more tightly and densely than stretch mesh, giving it more structure and usually more weight. The tighter the knit, the more compression the fabric will provide.
[00:05:45] I'll put some links to some videos that I found on bra builders.com that show a stretch or power mesh in a medium and a firm weight, and you can see the difference. It helps to see how they behave when she stretches them in the video.
[00:05:59] Jacqui: So now we know a bit more about what they are and how they are made, what might we choose to use them for?
[00:06:06] Well, let's start with the more stretchy stretch mesh or power mesh.
[00:06:10]
[00:06:11] Jacqui: Firstly, one of its key characteristics is its stretch and recovery, so it's great for garments that need flexibility and some shape retention.
[00:06:19] It's lightweight and breathable, and so it's soft against the skin, although it is made from synthetic fibers, so beware of that in case you're sensitive to those.
[00:06:29]
[00:06:30] Jacqui: It provides smoothing and shaping and is often seen layered with other fabrics to give it gentle support.
[00:06:36] It comes in lots of colors and can be used behind the scenes or front and center in your garment, so it's very versatile and despite its delicate appearance, it's very durable, especially when cared for correctly.
[00:06:51] powernet, on the other hand, is usually favored for its support and compression. It's great for providing more firm support and for shaping in parts of the garment that require a snug fit and control, such as bra bands, shapewear, and performance sportswear.
[00:07:08] It has some stretch with a very good recovery due to the more dense knit, so it's great for garments that you need to move with your body while maintaining their form. It's also strong and durable, so it lends itself to garments to get a lot of wear. It's breathable despite being more dense than stretch mesh making it good for comfort in tight fitting garments.
[00:07:32] Jacqui: So what's not so good about it? Well, there are some limitations to these fabrics.
[00:07:37] One of the challenges is that there is such a variety of weights, compositions, and structures out there that it can be hard to find the one with the properties that you want or need.
[00:07:47] I'll share some tips on choosing and buying shortly.
[00:07:51] These fabrics are often semi-transparent, so if you do want to use it in areas that need more coverage, then that might limit its use without layering or lining it with other fabrics.
[00:08:02] In the case of stretch or power mesh, it's more drapey, so not gonna be the best choice for garments where you're looking for a bit more structure or rigidity.
[00:08:10] On the flip side, powernet is more structured and so not the best choice for garments where you require more drape in terms of working with them. Both of them are knitted fabrics with some stretch, so if you haven't worked with those types of fabrics before, then that can take a bit of getting used to.
[00:08:27] I'm gonna share some tips on how you can work with these fabrics as well, so keep listening for that.
[00:08:33] And in terms of caring for them, they're both made from synthetic fibers, so they need careful laundering to maintain their elasticity and shape over time.
[00:08:43] And one final point about sustainability.
[00:08:46] Synthetic fibers are non biodegradable and do require energy intensive production processes.
[00:08:53] As mentioned before, they can also cause irritation to those with sensitive skin. To mitigate the impact of this, be mindful when you buy and use them to minimize any waste. To help with that, be sure to order samples first before you end up with a load of fabric that isn't what you expected.
[00:09:09] They can help to extend the life of a garment, for example, if you use them as linings as they are more durable, which means that the garments last longer and we don't have to make or buy as often.
[00:09:21] Some manufacturers are also making fabrics using recycled polyester, which helps reduce waste and energy consumption.
[00:09:28] So look out for those too.
[00:09:30] Jacqui: There are a few alternatives to the more stretchy, stretch or power mesh, such as organic cotton or bamboo mesh, but I couldn't easily find any natural alternatives with the same stretch and compression characteristics of the powernet.
[00:09:44] There are alternative high compression lycra or spandex blends often used in sportswear.
[00:09:51] Neoprene also provides compression but is a lot more bulky, and there are also a lot of performance fabrics that have similar compression features, but that don't feature the mesh structure. These can be harder to find and buy as fabric by the meter, particularly in the uk, so you might need to search for those.
[00:10:10] Jacqui: In terms of patterns, to give you an inspiration, the majority of the patterns that state power mesh or powernet as a requirement tend to be bras, knickers, swimwear, or sportswear patterns. I will put some examples of those into the show notes blog post for you so you can take a look.
[00:10:26] There's also a good YouTube video by cyber Sewing School on where in a swimsuit or bikini that you can put these different fabrics.
[00:10:33] So you might be thinking, well, Jacqui, that's all well and good, but I'm not planning to make my own shapewear or swimsuits this year. So why is it of interest to me?
[00:10:43] Well, you're right. These fabrics are great for lingerie and swimwear each having its own role to play.
[00:10:49] They can also be used in sportswear and dancewear. So if you've put, be more active on your New Year's resolution list, then you could use them to add more breathable panels, often seen in leggings and wickable linings, There's also a great video by Adopt Your Clothes, showing how to adapt a leggings pattern to add your own breathable mesh panels.
[00:11:10] But did you know that they can also be used with dress patterns to create sheer panels wherever your design and creativity inspire you You could use this technique on pretty much any pattern for a stretch garment,
[00:11:21] It also works really well for those illusion neck lines and sleeves that make it look like you can actually see your skin, but it's really covered by fabric.
[00:11:30] the stretch and power mesh can be used as a lightweight lining Or you could use it as a supportive underlayer in closer fitting body con dresses to give a smooth finish.
[00:11:40] So for example, Mimi G has a great couple of videos explaining how she uses powernet and power mesh as linings in her close fitting dresses and pencil skirts so that you don't have to wear any kind of shapewear under them.
[00:11:52] There's a great article by Pamela Howard for Threads Magazine on how to add slimming mesh panels to a skirt or trousers where she demonstrates adding it to a ready to wear pair of yoga pants.
[00:12:04] So you aren't just limited to using these fabrics on new makes. You can incorporate their benefits into clothes that you might already have in your wardrobe.
[00:12:12] And if you are inspired to give, making your own Spanx a go, then I love Beverly Johnson's class Sewing Shapewear Smooth Silhouettes, which is on Craftsy.
[00:12:22] I'll include links to all of these resources in the show notes blog post. So be sure to check that out at sewmuchmorefun.co.uk/post/episode80.
[00:12:34] Jacqui: So what do these fabrics cost and what tips have we got for buying them? When buying stretch or power mesh or powernet fabrics, I definitely found it challenging to find consistent naming conventions. So I'd recommend digging into the details.
[00:12:49] If buying online, look for websites that give information about the amount and direction of stretch.
[00:12:55] Some also have videos, which can be really helpful so you can see how the fabric behaves.
[00:13:01] From what I found, the more stretchier stretch mesh or power mesh seems to have a higher stretch percentage, and I found examples that were between 75 and a hundred percent stretch. They often included words like drape, lightweight, very stretchy, those kind of words in the description.
[00:13:20] For the powernet, the stretch percentages seem to be more in the 50% range. They use words in the description like compression recovery, medium and firm weight. They do tend to also look a bit less, see-through in the pictures,
[00:13:36] But quality and feel do vary. And because you are likely to be wearing this next to your skin, I don't think there's any substitute for getting a sample so that you can check the texture.
[00:13:47] It's also a good idea to check the care instructions with the supplier. If you are a fan of using a tumble dryer or hot washes, then this fabric may not cope well with that.
[00:13:57] Also, look for options that are made using recycled materials wherever possible.
[00:14:03] Jacqui: So what are my tips for working with it? Well, we mentioned at the beginning that these fabrics are knitted slightly differently to your standard jersey and knit fabrics. Because of the way that they're constructed, they can have different amounts of stretch across the fabric versus up and down the fabric.
[00:14:21] So when you're placing your pattern pieces, be sure that the direction of greatest stretch goes around the body. This may mean lining your pattern pieces up at 90 degrees to the selvedges rather than lining them up aligned with the selvedges.
[00:14:35] Powernet is definitely easier to cut out than stretch or power mesh as it's generally firmer and less stretchy.
[00:14:41] But depending on the size and shape of your pattern pieces, I think personally it's easier to cut this fabric out with a rotary cutter to get the most accurate shape
[00:14:50] In terms of sewing it when I made my bra, we used jersey needles. This just helps to avoid making holes in the knit structure of the fabric as the needle is designed to slide past the fibers.
[00:15:03] We did also use the Maraflex stretch thread, but I think if you're using a narrow zigzag stitch, then that's not really essential. But it can help.
[00:15:12] You've heard me say it before, but remember, test your stitching on a scrap of fabric before you start. It's tempting to skip this step, but you'll save yourself a lot of time and frustration if you do, I promise.
[00:15:25] Be careful not to stretch it when you're sewing, especially the stretch mesh. A walking foot can be really helpful to manage that, but if you don't have one, then check to see if you can reduce the pressure of your presser foot on your machine as that can also help
[00:15:41] When pressing use a pressing cloth and a lower heat setting. Nylon doesn't like a hot iron.
[00:15:49] When we were doing the bra making, we used a relatively small stitch length of around 1.8 or two. This can make it hard to unpick a mistake though.
[00:15:58] And if you aren't careful with your seam ripper, it can create holes in your fabric. So it's a great idea to do machine basting first, which is to sew with a long stitch length around four. That way you can check that everything's lined up okay first, and it's easier to unpick. And then when you're happy, sew it again with your smallest stitch length.
[00:16:19] If you are sewing powernet and you're planning for it to be compressing some part of your body, then smaller stitch lengths are also a good idea to reduce the chance of it popping open.
[00:16:29] If you want to be doubly sure, add a second row of stitching very close to the first to reinforce the seam.
[00:16:35] Jacqui: As I mentioned, I did look for patterns that use stretch or power mesh, but most of the recommendations were to incorporate it as a panel or use it as a lining, which you could really do with any stretch pattern.
[00:16:48] Some specific ones to mention though are the Willowdale Bra by Cashmerette which is the one I made at my sewing class at the Sewing Bee in Stapleford.
[00:16:57] The Marlborough bra by Orange Lingerie, which I made when doing my Dress Making and Tailoring Diploma at Alison Smith's School of Sewing. And there's also the Harriet Bra by Cloth Habit, which I think it's just got a pretty shape.
[00:17:11] There are quite a few swimsuit patterns available now, including the Cottesloe Swimsuit by Megan Nielsen, the Karlie Swimsuit by Maddalyn, and the Coralie Swimsuit and Bikini by Tilly & the Buttons, that also has a video tutorial to go with it. Each of these can be lined with stretch or power mesh.
[00:17:31] For active wear, Greenstyle, have loads of leggings patterns, and a great swimsuit pattern.
[00:17:36] And I'll also include a link in the blog post to a video on how to do the mesh inserts in leggings.
[00:17:42] As we've also said for dresses and skirts, Mimi G has a couple of videos where she shows how to line a dress in a pencil skirt with powernet as an alternative to wearing separate shapewear. And I really like the idea of that. And she uses it with a concept where she's just basically making it the same size as the lining.
[00:17:58] Or if you want to make it a bit more compressive, then you can just take an eighth of an inch off your pattern and then it will make it a little bit smaller so it's closer to your body.
[00:18:07] So hopefully you're feeling a bit better informed about what these great fabrics are. And have some new ideas on how and when to use them.
[00:18:14] If you do give it a go and want to share how it went, then I always love to hear from you. So drop me an email or message me on Instagram or Facebook
[00:18:24] And if you feel a bit intimidated about giving it a try on your own, then why not do like I did and find a class that can help you?
[00:18:31] More and more fabric shops are offering sewing classes now, so do support them by getting out there and giving it a try.
[00:18:38] So that's it for this week, and I do look forward to chatting with you again soon.
[00:18:42]
[00:18:44] Jacqui: Well, that's it for this episode. Thank you so much for listening. Check out the show notes in the description area of your podcast app and click to follow or subscribe or head over to sewmindful.com/podcast, which is S E W M I N D F U L.com, where you can also sign up for an email reminder so that you don't miss out on any juicy episodes.
[00:19:07] If you listen on Apple Podcast, then please help others find us by leaving a review, if you love this episode, And I'm always excited to find out what you got from the episode and how you plan to use the tips. And finally, if you have a question, feedback or a topic you'd like me to investigate, then you can also email me at hello@sewmuchmorefun.co.uk .
[00:19:28] So until next time, stay gorgeous and have sew much more fun.